Sitting in a restaurant eating sardines, we’re watching the Tagus river complete its journey from Spain through Portugal to the Atlantic. And the northbound traffic gathering on the A2 bridge.
The world is coming to Lisbon. It’s rally time. Subaru may well have departed the sport four years earlier, but the blue and yellow is still very much on display at the table behind. It’s lunchtime and the Sagres is flowing – as is the conversation as soon as our friends find out we’re British.
“McRae,” grins one of them, patting the Subaru badge on his t-shirt. “Always McRae.”
We were in no position to argue. So we didn’t. Instead, we chatted briefly about the 1995 world champion’s finer moments in Portugal.
Conversation drying up and sardines done, it felt like a good time to make our excuses and head for the city stage which would open the 2012 edition of Portugal’s WRC counter.
“Meeke! Where is Meeke? Why Meeke is not here?”
Meeke's Mini WRC stint extended as far as Catalunya in 2011 but, unfortunately for the locals, not into Portugal 2012
One of the four raised a point they were universally in agreement on.
“Yes, Kris should be here. Meeke is the same like McRae. He’s the guy to watch.”
And so, for the next 10 minutes we debated the pros and cons of Prodrive’s decision to stick with Dani Sordo instead of Meeke. Much as they loved the almost-local star Sordo, it was Meeke who they wanted to see driving a Mini John Cooper Works WRC that weekend.
As the next three and a half days played out, it became enormously clear that Portugal loved Kris Meeke.
Nothing’s changed.
Fast forward 12 years and Meeke’s loving Portugal so much he’s stayed for the season. The Northern Irishman has campaigned a Hyundai Portugal i20 N Rally2 in this year’s domestic series. He’s dominated the events and would be champion, were it not for a local rule which says only the Portuguese can win the Portuguese title. That neither bothers nor interests Kris. He’s here for the roads. The car. The craic. And the view.
Spectacular scenary complements Portuguese food, fans and rallying heritage
“I’m really enjoying it,” Meeke told DirtFish shortly after winning a sixth event from eight starts on the stages. “I’m enjoying the driving probably as much as any time in my career. Living in Andorra now, Portugal’s pretty straightforward from the travel side and the roads and the rallies are just mega. I think pretty much all of the events are using old WRC stages – even the events in the south are including roads from the days when the WRC was in the Algarve.
“And for the Tarmac, you’re going out to Madeira, which is one of the most technically challenging events in the world and one I’ve never been able to find my rhythm on. All that’s missing is the Azores. I hope that comes back, I love that rally.”
That’s all great, but isn’t the Rally2 trim i20 supposed to be old hat now? Not according to Meeke (and recently re-crowned European Rally Champion) Hayden Paddon.
“The car’s still very capable at a national level,” he said. “We’re generally able to run first or second on the road if you have a good qualifying and we’re OK if the ruts aren’t too deep. I think we’re aware in terms of suspension and some other areas, the Toyota and Škoda are probably a level ahead, but we’ve shown the i20 can still win – especially with Team Hyundai Portugal.
Meek's Portuguese program extended to contesting the nation's WRC round
“This team has a real family atmosphere, it reminds me of when I was driving with PH Sport [Citroën Racing satellite team] in 2016. Everybody pulls together and gets stuck in with that small team environment.”
That family atmosphere was, of course, tested sorely when Craig Breen died just over a week after driving the team’s i20 in the Algarve. It was a big call for Meeke to step in and drive the team’s car with Craig’s co-driver James Fulton alongside.
“That was a very emotional time, of course it was,” said Meeke, “but as much as I wanted to do it for Craig, I was clear at the time that I was driving because I still enjoy driving. That’s still the case now.”
As a five-time world rally winner, Meeke’s success in Portugal isn’t exactly a surprise though.
“Don’t be thinking it’s just about turning up here,” he said. “The competition is close with guys like José Pedro [Fontes], Armindo [Araújo] and the rest. Maybe I have the edge on the loose, but on the Tarmac these guys are so sharp.
Local competition is tough - especially on asphalt; Meeke won eight of 11 stages on Rali de Castelo Branco, but throttle problem cost him victory
Meeke is – and always has been – a rally man through and through. That’s another reason why Portugal appeals so much, in the same way it did to his former mentor, mate and landlord Colin McRae.
“This place is just steeped in the history of rallying,” he said. “You know what it’s like in Porto and those regions, it’s the same everywhere. You go to a test on a wet Tuesday morning in the middle of nowhere and hundreds of people turn up. The people here fanatical about the sport – what’s not to love about that?”
Having grown up watching his father Sydney preparing some of the finest cars in the Irish and British series, Meeke has a good insight into what it takes to make a great national championship. And Portugal’s got it.
“The quality of the roads here is second to none in any national championship in Europe,” said Meeke. “And on top of that, the weather’s mega – most of the time – the food’s spectacular and there’s a great social aspect to it. Everything is just a bit more relaxed and, maybe you can pick up on it, I’m just enjoying driving right now. It’s putting a smile on my face.”
Meeke’s back. And Portugal’s very glad to have him.
